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Discovering A Hidden Gem of Berlin: The Hackescher Höfe

Updated: Sep 17


A photo of a courtyard with the sun lighting half of it and the rest in shadow

Courtyard I of the Hackesche Höfe

 

The History of the Hackesche Höfe


The Hackesche Höfe (Höfe or Hoefe meaning Courtyards) begin with the development of the area around it we call the Hackescher Markt. In order to create a new settlement area Berlin's city commander Hans Christoph Friedrich von Hacke drained the swampy land around this area in 1750 and subsequently the marketplace and later the courtyards were named after him. The area which was largely the barn quarter (Scheunenviertel) and residential area for the local Jewish population - invited to settle in Berlin in 1671, though forced to live outside the city - began to transform to a somewhat Bourgeois and commercial neighborhood.

 
A photo from the 19th century of a barren looking square with a few people standing nearby

The Hackescher Markt in 1871; farther to the right would become the future entrance of the Hackesche Höfe; Wikipedia

 

The space where the Hackesche Höfe are located today first began to develop when glassware manufacturer Hans Quilitz acquired the property at Rosenthaler Str. 40 and built commercial structures in 1858. Forty-seven years later, the Quilitz heirs purchased the adjacent properties at Rosenthaler Strasse 41 and Sophienstrasse 6.


In 1905, the Quilitz heirs had the existing buildings demolished, and in 1906/07, they constructed Germany's largest residential and commercial courtyard complex called simply the Hackesche Höfe. Altogether, the structures formed eight courtyards and were designed by architect and builder Kurt Berndt. The very green interior courtyards primarily contained rental apartments, most of which had balconies and integrated various functions that were unique at the time.


For example, the concept of using Courtyard I for cultural purposes and designing it accordingly - in the style of Art Nouveau - was both unusual and innovative at the time. This approach reflected the influence of the Lebensreform - or "Social Reform" movement - around 1900. The courtyards were designed to receive sunlight and fresh air from adjacent green spaces — the old Jewish cemetery from 1672 and the cemetery of the Sophienkirche. The courtyards were equipped with green plants, a large sandbox, and several fountains. The approximately 80 apartments mostly had balconies and all featured bathrooms, indoor toilets, and central heating.

 
A old view of the Hackescher markt with beautiful old styled buildings and traffic in the intersection

Hackescher Markt with the main entrance to the Hackesche Höfe on the bottom left next to the awnings; Wikipedia

 

The Hackesche Höfe became a hub for art and literature: clubs and associations gathered there, and the Imperial cinema opened in the cross-building. Simultaneously, the Hackesche Höfe became a significant part of Jewish life as well as a girls' club and a student cafeteria renting spaces there.


After the economy began to sink post-World War I, entrepreneur Jakob Michael became the principal shareholder of the "Hackescher Hof" Grundstücksgesellschaft GmbH. Emil Köster AG, operator of the German Family Department Store (DeFaKa), soon became the main tenant, using the space for offices, storage, and a company cafeteria. But this was due to change again when the Nazis forced the auction of the Hackesche Höfe. The reason was the owner Jakob Michael was Jewish, though he managed to emigrate to Holland in 1932 before Hitler's rise to power, and to the USA in 1939. Emil Köster AG, whose main shareholder—via an American proxy—was, in fact, still Jakob Michael, became the new owner.


As with much of Berlin, much of the courtyard space sustained damage in the Second World War and in the final days of World War II, the first courtyard was heavily damaged by bombs. After the War, Emil Köster AG was expropriated by the East German government and the Hackesche Höfe were declared "people's property" in 1950. Luckily a year earlier, tenants had prevented the demolition of the Art Nouveau facades in the first courtyard and in 1960 the facade on Rosenthaler Straße was modernized, with stucco and gables removed. The entire ensemble was eventually placed under historical protection in 1977.

 
A barren looking space that is post-war Hackescher Markt with cars parked nearby and a small park in the foreground

1957, angle similar to the photo above from 1871; entrance to the Hackesche Höfe under the words "Imperial" to the right; ddr-postkarten

 

With the reunification, artists and cultural workers rediscovered the site, utilizing the available spaces for their projects. The "Society for the Promotion of Urban Life-Hackesche Höfe e.V." was established, securing the ensemble and advocating strongly for its preservation as a cultural site. The property was restituted to the heirs of Jakob Michael, and the association developed a mix of users to maintain the courtyards as a cultural site. In 1994, entrepreneurs Roland Ernst and Dr. Rainer K. F. Behne purchased the area. They hired the architectural firm Weiß & Partner to redesign the facade on Rosenthaler Straße and agreed with representatives of residential, cultural, and commercial tenants on the renovation.

 
A courtyard in the 1990s with cars parked in it and man walking by

Courtyard I in the early 1990s; Hackescher-Hof

 

Today the eight Hackesche Höfe provide space for nearly four dozen commercial enterprises over 27,000 square meters. The courtyards are owned by a family that aligns with the goals of the resident tenants and the shops in the Hackesche Höfe remain owner-operated, selling self-created manufactured products with a high standard of quality.


The shops vary from local designer brands, chocolate, office space, to shops offer local products. The website provides a great rundown on everything available and I highly recommend taking a look here first before visiting.

 

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Alexander La Rocca


Photo of Alexander La Rocca with the Mauerpark in the background

Alexander La Rocca has been creating experiences for

visitors to Berlin since 2012 when he began in the tourism industry. Having organized and led thousands of tours, trips, and events, he started his own company.


Whether for large groups or company or team events, he offers his expertise to make a trip to Berlin a memorable experience. Visit him at https://www.yourtripberlin.com/ 

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